Saturday, 5 July 2014

The Beartooth






THE Bear tooth on the Beartooth highway (Photo by Mary Jenson)

I wonder what percentage of the USA population has driven Beartooth Highway: I've helped make up for them--I suspect I've driven it a dozen times at least over the decades, and never has it been more gorgeous than this past week--my camera battery gave out before we got to this spot, but fortunately, one of my eight companions (all members of the Rocky Mountain Chapter of the North American Rock Garden Society) were along--with THEIR cameras! And the President of our chapter got this picture of the actual bear tooth that the pass is named for: wonder if anyone has climbed it?

Penstemon eriantherus
On the way to the Beartooth from Cody one must cross over "Dead Indian Pass"--surely one of the least P.C. place names around. Wonder when there will be a campaign to change that one? The pass is carpeted with floral gems, a blend of alpine cushion plants that descend, and montane and steppe plants climbing to their altitudinal limit. This penstemon was already in ripening seed around Cody, but here in full bloom at the heights.
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Locoweed (Oxytropis sericea)
Tons of Locoweed--don't leave your horses here untended!

Lesquerella sp. and Oxytropis sericea
Wonderful little drifts everywhere--like locoweed and a bladderpod on a scree.

Saxifragta bronchialis ssp. austromontana

The dotted saxifrage is universal in the Rockies, but always a welcome sight. I wish it were as amenable to gardens as other saxifrages!

Clematis columbiana ssp. tenuiloba
Some botanists have lumped our wonderful dwarf, herbaceous clematis with the huskier climbing sort--surely lumping gone mad! I'd not found this on previous visits to the mountain--this was an especially lovely color form.

Phacelia sericea
Much huskier than the typically high alpine race, I've seen purple fringe growing even at lower elevations in Brown's Park. Always a delight to find (must grow it again--it does adapt to gardens)...

Physocarpus malvaceus
I first saw this on the lower slopes of the Uinta mountains. I have never seen it in a garden--one of the showiest of montane shrubs. Must look for seed! Here growing in the Sunlight Basin (lovely name)...

Physocarpus malvaceus
Closeup of the flowers. I know...another white rosaceous blob. But I like white rosaceous blobs!

Penstemon deustus
I was surprised to see a rather bright pink form of the normally ivory (even dingy ivory) dusty deustus, as my ex- used to call it. We actually had some pretty good times.

Allan Taylor--mentor and brother-in-law with Pilot Mountain in background
I will not mention just how long Allan and I have known one another: let's just say one hand is not enough to count the decades. Despite the duration, I never quite have enough of my relative, friend, mentor and buddy: what a joy to have him and Michiko along on the trip! Pilot Mountain--looking absurdly like the Matterhorn--is photobombing behind. Wyoming is really glorious!

Townsendia parryi
As I gazed at these I rued the troughs that used to be in Wildflower Treasures: one was always filled with this fabulous daisy (that self sowed around it). When I came back from this trip I found that the redoubtable Kintgen had several blooming in a new trough in the Rock Alpine Garden--he's always a step ahead!

Potentilla: mystery species
I am embarrassed that I do not know this spectacular potentilla--with moonlight yellow flowers.

Pilot (left) and Index (right) mountains
It is hard to explain the majesty of mountains to those who don't already love them. But views like this help!

Penstemon cyananthus
These were growing around the bend from that view. Arguably the most dazzling of penstemons.

Fritillaria pudica scattered about.
The road up Clay Butte was closed--but the Fritillaria I wanted to show my co-Horts (quite literally) was right at the gate (see the shadow?)

Myosotis alpestris
It is SO unfair that true forget-me-nots are so rare in Colorado (I've only seen them once) and so common in Wyoming. Is there no justice?

Fritillaria pudica
The Dutch are selling a form of this more amenable to cultivation: yellowbells are nonetheless widespread and abundant across much of the northern Rockies and far West.

Smelowskia calycina
One of the many links with Central Asia, I've seen this same species in the Tian Shan mountains.

More drabas
I, for one, can never have enough drabas!

Phlox pulvinata and Smelowskia calycina
Cushions and mats all over the place...I like the way the flowering on phlox starts at one side of the mound.

Phlox pulvinata
An especially dark specimen...


Drabas are widespread throughout the alpine tundras of the world, and Beartooth is no exception. Alas, you must have their seedpods (siliques) to be sure of the species...

Polemonium viscosum and Smelowskia
The Sky pilot just starting to bloom: this clump will dazzle in a week.

Pedicularis oederi
One of the peculiar disjuncts found in the Northern Rockies and the Alps. Intriguing color blend of yellow and brown.
Polemonium viscosum, Smelowskia calycina and Phlox pulvinata
More cool combos--tundra in summer is almost overwhelming in its richness...


Lots of snow on the peaks and along the highway--it will be colorful all summer!

Androsace (Douglasia) montana
I am sure there must be SOMEWHERE in Colorado where a bird has planted this. How a plant can be so common in Wyoming (not just on tundra--I've seen this below on the steppes around Sheridan) and totally absent from my native state--just not fair. But it does grow in gardens here!

Saxifraga oppositifolia (Photo by John Brink)

My picture was fuzzy of this loveliest of native saxifrages--which is found on the Beartooth, the Windrivers and elsewhere in Wyoming (and everywhere northward in the northern Rockies, Alaska, Central Asia...but not Colorado. There just be a few colonies lurking undiscovered yet...let's go look for them! Meanwhile, we can drive north seven hours to Cody and they'll be close by!



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